Summer in Alájar: Tradition, Romerías, and Fervour in the Sierra de Aracena
A journey through Alájar's most cherished summer celebrations, from San Bartolomé and the Virgen de la Salud to the much-anticipated Romería of the Queen of the Angels at the Peña de Arias Montano.
Discover how Alájar experiences its summer fiestas, an authentic gathering of culture, devotion, and community that culminates in September with the grand romería.
Summer Romerías and Fiestas in Alájar
Summer wouldn't be summer without the traditional Romerías and village Fiestas. Every village in the area will have a romería and a Fiesta over the summer - starting in May and finishing on the 8th of September with the Romería de la Reina de Los Angeles and Fiestas de Alájar all in the same few days, 6-8 September! Many Alajeños book their summer holidays to coincide with the village events every year and from the beginning of August the village is buzzing!
The Romería de San Bartolomé
The standard of the Simpecado leaving the village
The first event in Alájar is the Romería de San Bartolomé celebrated on the closest weekend to the saints day 24th August - this year the 24th fell on Sunday, which hadn't happened since 2014. It makes it that little extra special being able to have the saints procession on the very day. Preparations for the pilgrimage to the 16th Century San Bartolomé 's chapel, 8 km south of Alájar, take place all year round with fund raising and maintenance of the chapel. Closer to the date the chapel is whitewashed and spring cleaned and flowers adorn the chapel ready for the big day. As the day dawns we are woken by the local traditional tamborileros, musicians that play a wooden recorder and drum at the same time. They will accompany the Simpecado all day long. Leaving the village on Saturday afternoon the standard of the Simpecado is mounted on the oxen pulled carriage and the villagers follow behind - by foot, on horseback, in horse drawn carriages and lastly vehicles, along with the sounds of a brass band! As with most festivities in Andalucía religion and merriment go hand in hand and people are well prepared with lots of food and drink! Ponche is the favorite for this event, made a few days before with white wine, sugar, fresh peaches and fizzy orange, kept as cold as possible! San Bartolomé 's chapel is a beautiful spot, one of the best places in the area for star gazing!
The milky way from 'El Santo' by Hugo González Ponce
La Virgen de la Salud Romería
The following weekend it is La Virgen de la Salud Romeria. This is a much quieter, more intimate affair. Once again the local tamborileros wake us up to their unique sound first thing in the morning. No simpecado is taken to the chapel in Los Madroñeros, but villagers make the pilgrimage all the same. Setting off in the afternoon, usually in cars loaded with food and drink, the single lane track can only be one way - towards Los Madroñeros. Parking in a field close to the hamlet, trestle tables and chairs are quickly unloaded and soon full of food - empanada, tortilla, chacina, home grown tomatoes, a leg of jamón, cheese and lots of very cold beer! At 23h the Rosary is recited while walking around the hamlet and after the merriment continues until the early hours. On the Sunday, mass is heard and the statue of Our Lady is carried around the unpaved, uneven streets of the hamlet, and as always, accompanied by the local tamborileros.
Virgin de la Salud by Ignacio Navarro
Fiestas y Romería of la Reina de Los Ángeles
The highlight of Alájar's summer is is the Fiestas y Romeria of la Reina de Los Angeles at the beginning of September. The few days everyone has been waiting for all summer! The fiestas consist of various activities organised by the town hall mainly for the younger generations during the day followed by dancing at night.
Village kids enjoying the entertainment by day...
and night!
This is combined with 2 important events around the chapel of Our lady de los Angeles, at La Peña de Arias Montano. The first, 'El Poleo' on the 7th, celebrates the taking of possession of the Peña. In 1843, during the 'desamortización de Mendizábal' (a series of confiscations and sales of church property) in Spain, when the Church had its lands expropriated. The Peña de Arias Montano belonged to the Church and to prevent this beautiful place from being bought by anyone else, the Church ceded it to the town of Alájar. An equestrian procession from the square, composed of the town's authorities, the Brotherhood of Alájar, the clergy, and townspeople, sets off promptly at 11:00 AM. They don't wait for anyone, and it's common to say in the town, 'You are more punctual than the Poleo.' It's also traditional for a large firework to be set off as the Poleo leaves. As it explodes, the local brass band starts to play music and the drum sounds.
El Poleo procession arriving at La Peña
When they arrive at the Peña, the town's youngest children make an offering of local products to the Reina de Los Angeles. immediately after, the authorities, the brotherhood, the clergy, and the townspeople symbolically take possession of the Peña.
Afterward, the Brotherhood's house opens. That year's Mayordomo (steward) invites the entire town and their companions to a refreshment. The Alájar Town Council also opens another house and offers its own refreshments, and the villagers get together in groups of friends with their own food and drink before returning to Alájar to rest. At 11pm, people drive back up to the Peña when a Holy Rosary is recited walking around the area of la Peña.
Fun for all ages
The Simpecado being placed on the carriage
The Big Day: The 8th
The 8th of September is the main day, as it is both the Virgin's Day and the day of the Romería (pilgrimage). The Village of Alájar is up at the crack of dawn getting themselves, their horses and all the food and drink ready for the day of celebrations. Alájar, the main brotherhood, is first to arrive and leaves the village at 08am. Having been woken to the sound of the local tamborileros and brass band that walk around the village calling everyone to congregate at the church and wait for the blessings to be said, the Simpecado to be mounted in it's silver plated carriage, the fireworks sound, the musicians strike up again and lead the procession from the church, into the square where the horseback riders are waiting to join the procession which, at the pace of the oxen drawing the carriage, makes it's way out of the village and up to the Peña and Our lady's sanctuary.
Leaving the square
At the Peña, the brotherhoods from the neighbouring Sierra villages begin to arrive with their horses, Simpecados, and carriages. It is unique to see the greeting that these banners perform in honour of Our Lady at the chapel door. A procession of the statue of Our Lady then takes place around the Real de la Peña, where she is taken to the view point overlooking Alájar and the Salve (a Mariana hymn) is sung. This is followed by chants of 'Viva!' (Long live!) to the Patron Saint of the Sierra. Afterward, a solemn Mass is celebrated.
The carriages from the Brotherhoods at Peña
The celebrations begin and the villagers from all over the sierra begin to mingle and share their food and drink.
After an intense day and before darkness falls all the brotherhoods return home.
leaving the Peña Until next year...
Evening Celebrations in the Village
However this is not the end of the day for Alájar! Once we are back in the village, the Salve is sung again in the main square, the Simpecado is dismounted and the oxen back the carriage into storage (not a mean feat) until next year. Then everyone scurries back home to freshen up, change out of their romeria clothes, dress up for the 'Gran Baile' which kicks off 23.30 at the earliest!
¡Viva las Fiestas de Alájar!
Don't miss out on witnessing a truly authentic experience! Nothing is contrived here - just people really enjoying themselves. A celebration of life, friends, family and traditions.